You choose your window frames to last twenty-five years, but it is easy to forget that a little attention along the way changes everything. The good news: maintaining a modern frame is simple, quick and inexpensive. No sanding, no specialist product — just a few regular moves that preserve the airtightness, insulation and smooth operation of your PVC windows, aluminium or wood-alu. Here is how to do it, material by material, without spending your weekend on it.
The basic clean, valid for every material
Whatever the material, the principle is the same and fits in one sentence: water, mild soap, a soft cloth. It is the founding move, the one that maintains the appearance and prevents the moving parts from clogging up.
- Use lukewarm water with mild soap or washing-up liquid.
- Wipe a non-abrasive sponge or a microfibre cloth over the profiles, the uprights and the frame.
- Rinse with clean water, then dry with a soft cloth to avoid marks.
- Take the chance to wipe the bottom of the frame, where dust and moisture build up.
Once or twice a year is enough in a normal situation. If you live near a busy road, by the sea or close to a building site, bring the cleanings closer together: dust and salt are the real enemies of longevity.
Acetone, white spirit, nail-polish remover, scouring powder, scrubbing sponge: all scratch or dull PVC and attack the lacquers of aluminium, irreversibly. When in doubt, stick to soapy water — it deals with almost everything.
PVC: zero constraint, or almost
PVC is the easiest material to live with. Its smooth surface needs only a clean with soapy water once or twice a year to stay flawless for decades. White does not yellow with modern profiles, and laminated colours keep their lustre.
The only pitfall is the product used. PVC hates anything that scratches or dissolves: so forget solvents, scouring creams and abrasive sponges, which leave micro-scratches where dirt then clings. For a stubborn stain, a special PVC cleaner does the job — never any acetone.
Dark colours facing full south
A very dark finish exposed to the south heats up more. It stays perfectly durable with a suitable profile, but avoid cleaning it in full sun: the water dries too fast and leaves marks. Work early in the morning or at the end of the day.
Aluminium: the lacquer and the seals
Lacquered aluminium is cleaned exactly like PVC, with mild soapy water. Its powder-coated lacquer is robust, but it too fears abrasives and strong solvents, which can mark it. A microfibre cloth is enough to restore its shine.
On aluminium, the point of attention shifts to the seals and the moving parts. Sliding frames in particular have rails in which dust accumulates: a pass with a fine vacuum nozzle then a damp cloth in the rail channel avoids stiff spots and preserves the gliding. Also check that nothing is blocking the drainage openings at the bottom of the frame.
Wood-alu: the outside needs nothing
Wood-alu is designed to be forgotten on the outside. The aluminium cap takes the rain and the sun without the slightest maintenance: just an occasional clean with soapy water, like a standard aluminium frame, and that is it. No sanding, no wood stain to redo.
“Wood-alu means all the charm of wood on the inside, without the outdoor maintenance chore of an all-wood frame.
On the inside, the wood deserves a little attention, but nothing demanding: a regular dusting with a soft cloth and, depending on the finish, a light feed (suitable oil or wax) every few years to preserve the colour and the grain. It bears no comparison with wood exposed to the weather, which would require heavy maintenance every two to three years.
The weather seals: the item that counts most
This is the invisible detail that makes all the difference on the heating bill. The rubber seals ensure airtightness and water-tightness; dry or flattened, they let draughts through and the insulation drops off.
- Clean the seals with soapy water at the same time as the frames, with no solvent that dries them out.
- Once or twice a year, apply a thin coat of silicone product (spray or stick) to keep them supple.
- Inspect them by eye: a seal that cracks, hardens or no longer springs back into shape must be replaced.
Replacing a seal is a simple, inexpensive operation — far more economical than suffering heat losses for years.
The hardware: the most overlooked move
The fittings (hinges, locking points, espagnolette) are worked every time you open the window. Annual greasing protects them and avoids squeaking, stiff spots and premature wear.
- Once a year, place a drop of light oil (lock oil or sewing-machine oil) on each moving point.
- Work the handle several times to spread the oil through the mechanism.
- Avoid thick greases and oily sprays: they trap dust and eventually clog the mechanism.
If a handle is stiff, if the window closes badly or rubs, do not force it: it is often a simple adjustment of the fittings, to be done before the part wears out.
Drains and drainage openings: never neglect them
At the bottom of the frame, small slots — the drains — channel condensation and rainwater to the outside. Blocked by dust, leaves or insects, they let water stagnate, which ends up marking the profile and encouraging condensation inside.
Once or twice a year, check that these slots are clear and run the tip of a toothpick or a jet of air through them. This thirty-second move avoids most of the moisture problems at the bottom of the windows.
The glazing: simple and without excess
The glazing is cleaned with a standard glass cleaner or with water and a little white vinegar, using a squeegee or a lint-free cloth. Just avoid cleaning the glass in full sun, which creates marks, and do not use a metal scraper on coated glazing, at the risk of scratching the insulating treatment.
This is what regular maintenance can add to the useful lifespan of your window frames, by preserving seals, fittings and airtightness. A few hours a year, for years gained.
The maintenance schedule at a glance
No need to think about it every month. An annual rhythm, with an extra pass in spring, covers the essentials:
- 1 to 2 times a year — cleaning the profiles and seals with soapy water.
- Once a year — greasing the hardware, checking and applying silicone to the seals, cleaning the drains.
- Every few years — feeding the wood on the inside (wood-alu only).
- As needed — adjustment check if a window rubs or closes badly.
When maintenance is no longer enough
Maintenance extends the life of a window frame, but it does not bring a worn part back to life. A worn-out seal, a broken fitting, a misadjusted window, glazing fogged up between the two panes: these faults can be repaired, often without replacing the whole frame. Better to act early, before the problem spreads.
Seal, fitting, adjustment, handle or glazing: many faults are resolved by a targeted intervention, faster and far less costly than a full replacement.
See our window frame repairs →And if you are unsure about the material of your future window frames or their real condition, a professional’s eye settles it quickly. Discover all our window frame and joinery solutions, or request an on-site assessment.
The 30-second recap
- Soapy water once or twice a year — never any solvent or abrasive.
- Seals: gentle cleaning + silicone to keep their suppleness and airtightness.
- Hardware: a drop of light oil a year on the moving points.
- Drains kept clear at the bottom of the frame: thirty seconds against moisture.
- Wood-alu: nothing outside, a simple dusting inside.
- A fault? We often repair it without changing the frame.
Guide verified in May 2026 · updated every year